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I have many varied interests and enjoy gardening the most and have a large collection of Epiphyllum or Epi's, Echinopsis, Schlumbergera, Dragon Fruit, Cacti, Adeniums and various other plants of all kinds. If youíre thinking of growing & collecting these awesome blooming plants yourself here's some useful info. below that will help you to grow them too! This is the main growing page and may seem small, but below are navigation links to over 100 pages stacked behind this one-so theres lots to see and read!Dont worry if you click the wrong link every stacked page has a return link to this page or the home page. Otherwise you would get lost, so no worries theres no dead ends only links back for more info. and bloom pictures.
(Above; pictured is Epiphyllum CV 'Impossible Dream') to see it now just click the picture.
The information on this page below is for growing....
(Epi for short.)
For care of other plants offered at this website, please visit their individual growing info. pages by clicking a link below.
The word Epiphyllum was first used to describe this genus in the 1800s. The name epiphyllum comes from the Greek for "upon the leaf" in reference to the position of the flower. Of course epiphyllum 'leaves', are really only flattened stems, but with the large range of hybrids we now have some also have 3 angled growth.
Epiphyllum is a genus containing epiphyte cacti (meaning that they live carried by trees, like many orchids). It has been popular for a long time to use in hanging baskets, or as patio plants. Many species and genus have been hybridized, and the plants sold today with brightly colored flowers, have little in common with the wild plants that normally have white flowers. The red and orange colors come from crossing the original epiphyllum with other cactus of the genera Heliocereus and Nopalxochia. Other Jungle cacti have been crossed also to produce the wide range of mostly day blooming vibrantly colored hybrids we have today.
Epiphyllums are very easy to grow and will tolerate more neglect than any other type of plant and still reward you with large, vivid blooms in the spring. They require filtered light under a tree, shade cover, on a patio or in a lath house, also Epiphyllums can be grown indoors, but if moved outside in the early spring you will still get blooms. They do not tolerate either full sun or freezing temperatures, in fact, they may show some signs of damage under 35 deg and do best if kept at 40 deg or more. They will not bloom if they don't have fairly bright light though. Although most of the Epiphyllums offered on this site are Epiphyllum hybrids, there growing conditions are simular to the species that were used to hybridize them. There is a map of the Epiphyllum Species habitat range to give you an idea of what type of climate you need to simulate on the Epiphyte species page.
Click the picture above to see Epiphyllum Phyllanthus *var. hookeri-(Strictum)One of the many species we have in our collection.
CUTTINGS AND MIX
When you receive your Epiphyllum cuttings, they are in no hurry to be potted - in fact - be sure the end is well calloused before planting (Usually two-three weeks after they were cut). I will date your cuttings so you will know about when to prepare to plant, during warm summer months a week maybe enough time as itís hot and there in active growth. If Epi Cuttings are not well calloused on the end just leave the cuttings in cool dry place until well calloused. Epi's will not bloom well until they are root bound. It's a good idea to start two to three (same variety) cuttings together to fill a pot 6 inches or larger sooner, or one cutting in a 3" or 4" pot. Plant about 1-1/2" deep or enough so the Epiphyllum stem stands up on its own in a slightly damp rooting soil mix. You can experiment with other mixes as there are as many mixes as Epi growers. Just be sure it has good drainage.
More Epiphyllum Growing Info. Pages
For more info. on rooting Epiphyllum cuttings in Soil Mix please visit the page below
Water is the #1 KILLER of Epis, Try not to overwater!
Epi's should not be over watered, especially when first potted/ being rooted. Just mist the Epiphyllum stem for the first few weeks. Do not begin watering the soil until roots are established. To tell when your cuttings are rooted look for new growth or give a slight tug. Small pots need watering at least once a week in warm weather, less frequent in winter months. They should be kept on the dry side. Epi's love rain water, it helps to leach out the salts in fertilizer and most city supplied water. The plants love to be misted, early in the morning is best. When I water my Epi's I water them well for established plants and do not water them again until there completely dry on the surface. Use a pot with good drainage that has sufficient drain holes. If you think there getting to much water replace the soil or repot with fresh soil mix before rot sets in. Repotting will keep the soil around the roots lite and aerated. Once plants are larger you wonít need to be as careful since larger plants tend to use up any excess water better,also if you have long stems each one transpires or sweats a little water microscopically (daily water loss). This happens with all plants and its called Evapo-transportation or ET for short. Epiphyllums have very tight outer skin cells so ET or water loss is much less than other plants might have. Healthy stem growth will be a sign if there happy in most cases. If in doubt just repot with fresh mix works 9 times out of 10. Still didnt work then please read more of our grow pages. We have soulutions for every growing difficulty you might encounter.
Epiphyllum Hybrids come in large varieties of colors and sizes. Click one above too see.
ABOUT WATER Epiphyllums like a lower ph or acid soil as most city water is high or Alkaline. Heres some information to help correct that in the water or soil mix you use:
A balanced fertilizer (10-10-5) or equivalent can be used monthly from June through October, begin application after blooming has ended. Give them rest from November to mid-January. Then give them an application of low nitrogen bloom fertilizer (0-10-10) or equivalent or higher from mid-January until blooming/bud development ends. For most varieties this is in late Feb thru June. Unless youíre on the other side of the world like OZ, New Zealand or South Africa and itís in reverse.
Click the picture above and Visit the Fertilizer section to see the many fertilizer formulas available for Epiphyllums of all stages of growth.
To understand what NPK, the numbers on each product of fertilizer mean and for advanced blooming techniques- Click below to visit the
Epi's are relatively pest free but watch for snail damage. Scatter snail bait in the spring, if you have them in hanging baskets or on stands you will have fewer problems with snails. A good preventive measure for other pests is to give Malathion for aphids, mealy bugs and just about any soft skinned insect. For hard scale you can use horticultural oils, Marathon or scrape them off and wipe with rubbing alcohol. Because some growers live in various locations and although these pests are less common Iíve made a pest page that gives some info for each pesky critter. Most growers will experience only the ones mentioned above but depending where you live other pests can be a problem too for Epiphyllum growers. Check out our pest page below to see all types of pest you may encounter on your Epiphyllums depending on where your located.
For more information on soft and Hard scale see our page on SCALE and for all other common and less common Epiphyllum pests visit our Pest Page!
itís a good idea to put a label in each pot as the original cutting with the name will eventually die back and the name could be lost. I will include a label for each kind of cuttings you purchased in your shipping box and write the name/date cut in permanent marker pen on the cutting; In addition you can use a metal tag, label tape on the pots or a china marker.
With so many Epiphyllum varieties, several other types of plants and more added every day heres an easy to use search box for your convienance to find the many plant varieties on the Mattslandscape.com website
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